NYFW: Victoria Beckham Spring/Summer 2014 Collection
In the five years since launching her eponymous label, Victoria Beckham’s presence at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week has become one of the season’s most hotly anticipated shows.
As has come to be expected of Beckham, who has traditionally eschewed grand scale shows for intimate presentations, the show was a small edit of twenty-eight perfectly formed looks. This season was a departure from Beckhams signature of closely fitted and draped dresses, with the designer stepping outside her comfort zone with slightly abstract silhouettes. ‘I started with shape, both literally as well as conceptually,’ Beckham said backstage. ‘It’s boy meets girl, with a feminine wave running throughout.’
The concept was strong from the very first outfit, perfectly encasing the body in loose, below the knee trousers paired with a long tunic and a beautifully cut jacket, slightly oversized with soft sloping shoulders. The collection was a perfect juxtaposition of skilful construction and unrestrictive, liberating shapes. The androgyny of the oversized gilets and sporty bomber jackets were offset with sleeves created in chiffon for a feminine edge. The midis of last season were relegated to distant memory; this season Beckham gave legs centre stage with hemlines heading north. Dresses were sheath like, with pleated mini-skirts peeking out from underneath.
As for the accessories, the bags were held just so, the bottom clutched tightly to the body with a sense of purpose. Waists were tightly cinched with simple, wide lengths, the mules that the models strutted in were simple but strong; Mrs Beckham’s accessorises are the very definition of statement.
Our standouts from the show were an all white ensemble compromising a panelled white shirt with structured organza sleeves paired with a sleek smooth and pleated miniskirt. We also loved the panelled dropped hem tunic gave the tired peplum of many seasons a new stance, the flounces softer and nonchalantly layered over flowing trousers.
Backstage, dressed in a blouse and trousers from the collection, Beckham said ‘I still love a fitted dress, but there’s another side of me that wants to feel a little bit more at ease and a little bit more relaxed—but still sharp.” Her vision certainly rang true; the collection shows a distinct maturity and development in Beckham’s designs leaving us keenly anticipating Victoria’s next move.